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On October 11, Marine Thevenet, 35, made the primary feminine ascent of Juneru in Albarracín, Spain, turning into the eighth lady on this planet to climb V15. Juneri was first climbed by Rubén Díaz Torres and has seen various repeats, together with by longtime trad star James Pearson.
24-years after Fred Nicole climbed Dreamtimein Cresciano, Switzerland, V15 stays a haloed marker of concern. Ashima Shiraishi was the primary lady to climb the grade when she made the second ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Horizonin Mount Hiei, Japan. Since then, solely Mishka Ishii, Caddy Lehmann, Jana ŠvecováBrooke Rabatou, Katie Lamb, Janja Garnbret, and—now—Marine Thevenet have climbed so arduous.
Thevenet discovered climbing on the age of 10, by means of Vertigo Membership in Beaujolais, France. She shortly took to the rivals scene, shifting into her first Youth World Cup in 2004, at age 15, and persevering with on the circuit for the next 12 years. Though she started with a Lead background, Thevenet lastly started specializing in Boulder, which led to various prime ten World Cup finishes, together with fifth place at Innsbruck in 2014.
By 2016, nonetheless, Thevenet discovered herself unable to pursue excessive diploma rivals whereas furthermore making an attempt to foster a occupation as a contract lawyer. So she retired from competing and shifted her climbing focus to out of doors bouldering. “I am keen on it,” Thevenet says. “I get to be with associates, and alter to apparent traces exterior.”
She had climbed her first 8A (V11) when she was 25, nonetheless after retiring from competitions, she set herself the purpose of ending 30 8A boulders by the aim she turned thirty. Now 35, she’s climbed greater than 100 factors 8A or more durable. A few of her “proudest” ascents embody iconic traces paying homage to Dave Graham’s Scarred for Life (V12) and Nothin’ nonetheless Sunshine (V13). She climbed her first V14 in 2020 with an ascent of Magic Picket’s New Base Line and in 2022 repeated Bishop’s Compass North (V14).
That very same yr, Thevenet, now dwelling in Annecy, France, began SweeMT: a sports activities actions actions agency devoted to managing contracts with excessive athletes from all all around the globe. Presently, SweeMT works with climbers, alpinists, cross nation skiers, and paragliders. Regardless of this workload, she’s continued to spice up in her bouldering.
Visiting Albarracin remaining October, Thevenet climbed Misplaced in Silence (V13) and tried Juneru “by likelihood” as a no-commitment drawback. She shocked herself by feeling good on the strikes, which motivated her to take a place some actual effort. That very same journey, she had try by sticking the underside crux change and taking a spectacular fall off the topout (embedded beneath). “I knew precisely what I wanted to do to climb Juneruand I spent this September instructing considerably for it,” Thevenet acknowledged. “I did fairly a number of lockoffs and muscular energy instructing to carry the positions between every change.”
She spent her first two classes of 2024 reacquainting herself with the strikes and climbing the tip of the issue totally. As rapidly as she had the most effective dialed, she started specializing in sticking the low crux appropriately ample to hold on. And on her third session, she despatched the boulder. “Mentally, I had a simple time with Juneru,” Thevenet instructed Climbing. “Initially, I used to be a bit scared to return for it, nonetheless as rapidly as I attempted the boulder I let my motivation lead me to the most effective!”